Nosing through the wispy clouds, I had serious misgivings about the tiny dot of an island, with a silhouette resembling a well-chewed an apple core. It may be Ian Botham's home and the author of The Wombles, but, as a tourist destination, what exactly was there to do on Alderney?

For starters, it is just over three miles long and under two miles wide with a dusting of beaches and a nibbling of tiny bays.

And, with a resident population of a couple of thousand, one school, a clutch of pubs and small hotels, I guessed the locals would be pretty hard-pressed to stay occupied themselves never mind the visitors.

Then there are the island's other oddities: eight miles from the Normandy coast and yet the nearest of the Channel Islands to Britain. And, furthermore, it remains stoically outside the European Union, doggedly and proudly owing its allegiance to the Queen.

And even more oddities were to come. For example, there are over 40 thriving clubs and societies on the island - hardly leaving time for visitors to take a breath.

I particularly liked the languid, laid back atmosphere surrounding the local film society whose members congregate for drinks in a local wine bar while the projectionist changes the film reels until they are summoned back to their seats by a whistle.

Alderney's real joy is its people themselves the open-hearted hospitality when we were plied with homemade lemonade on a cycle ride around the cove.

The small chiding we got for being late for the little train. Yes, the island has its own lovingly-maintained locomotive which trundles two former London tube train coaches on a gentle meander from a quarry to a beach location.

And then there is the other form of tourist transport, a beautifully-restored 1956 Albion Victor green and cream single decker bus which keeps dutifully in the island's 20 mph speed limit - now that's a real oddity for you!

All the Channel Islands offer different and diverse breaks for stressed-out Brits looking for a quick hop across the channel.

Their locations alone and their proud and distinctly different heritage set them apart as easy-to-reach, reasonably prices alternative destinations.

St Peter Port, the capital of Guernsey, for example, is a real haven for tourists, with its steep, shop-filled streets, slanting

down to the impressive harbour thronged with the yachts of the rich and famous.

And here's something very different: head out into the lovely countryside and you'll be able to buy fresh flowers and local produce from unmanned roadside stalls.

Their owners rely on your honesty to pay for the goods could you see that happened down your high street?

The island like its lofty neighbour Jersey is home to stunning restaurants with sublime menus at prices that, surprisingly, won't break the bank.

I dined on the finest steak at La Favourita Hotel in Guernsey's breathtaking Fermain Bay, and the meal, including starters, sweet and wine, still left me change from £20.

But, once again, I am drawn back to the novelty and intrigue of the smaller islands.

Sark, the smallest of the four major Channel destinations, is just 22 miles west of the Normandy coast and a nudge under eight miles from Guernsey.

There are no cars, no metalled roads and absolutely no high-rise developments, unlike some resorts.

Tractors are used for pulling their buses' up the long climb from the harbour to the island's six hotels and numerous small guesthouses and self-catering accommodation.

And during the summer you'll see an occasional horse-drawn carriage and, of course, the obligatory bicycle punting along quiet country lanes with only a watchful kestrel for company.

Although there are few shops, you don't have to worry about good eating, particularly if you dine at La Moinerie Hotel and Restaurant. It is run by a local fisherman who specialises in serving up one of the great island delicacies, locally-caught lobsters.

After a splendid meal, I walked out on a starry night and marvelled at the island's silence which locals reckon is so profound that you genuinely wonder where the rest of the world has gone. But then again, that's the Channel Islands for you.

For information and hotel breaks on the Channel Islands, contact:

Jersey Tourism, Liberation Square, St Helier, Jersey JE1 1BB. Tel: 01534-500-700 or website: http://www.jersey.com Guernsey Tourist Board, PO Box 23, St Peter Port, Guernsey GY1 3AN.

Tel: 01481-26611 or website: www.guernseytouristboard.com

States of Alderney: 01481-822811 or email:states@alderney.net

Sark Tourism, contact 01481-832345.

January 16, 2003 10:30