EVERY so often, in Jobs for the Gardener, I write: "Check ties on climbers and wall plants, replacing any that have come loose in high winds".

This is good practice as unrestrained, flailing branches can easily snap or be damaged by rubbing against walls and brickwork.

The other reason for checking ties regularly, on climbers, wall plants and also on young trees, is to make sure they have not become too tight.

I have lost count of the number of young trees I have seen in parks and gardens which have outgrown their ties, and even large trees with thick, mature bark can be damaged by growing up against an immovable object, such as a wire fence.

The tree simply carries on growing around the object, forming at best an ugly callus, and at worst an ugly sore. Some of the most damaging ties are fastened around trees for secondary purposes, for washing lines, swings or bird box fixings. Small branches may well be strangled, suppressed and ultimately killed as they grow into nylon or wire ties.

My preferred method of tying lightweight climbers, such as roses, is to use garden string. The reason it only lasts a season or two before it rots and breaks, forcing me to re-tie the branches regularly. Plastic cable ties will do the same job but they will seldom break, so you must remember to check and replace them when pruning the climber each year.

Thin pvc tubing has recently become popular with nurserymen. We have tried this at Brockhole and it is certainly very effective. Unlike cable ties it is very flexible, but unlike string it does not rot away, so all used ties and cut-off ends have to be religiously picked up and thrown in the bin.

Larger trees need something more substantial, and there is a whole range of ties and belts commercially available, both mail order and from garden centres.

In many cases, the choice is purely personal, though there are a few basic rules. For fast-growing trees, small saplings of forest trees like oak, beech and ash, use a strap or tie with a built-in buckle, so that the tie can be lengthened as the tree grows.

Where a tree is fastened to a post, a squashy pad or spacer should be inserted between the stem and the post, so that the two do not rub together.

If you think you may not have time to check ties regularly, use a stretchy material such as rubber rather than a rigid tie.

Finally, remember to take both tie and stake away from trees once they are able to support themselves. A large tree holding up a small stake looks very unprofessional!

Tree ties are available mail order from BTCV Enterprises Ltd, tel 01302-572200; Toms Tree Ties, tel 01233-770066; and LBS Horticulture, tel 08707-273616.

Jobs for the week...

- Prune greenhouse and conservatory climbers, such as plumbago and passionflower. Cut out any weak growths and prune side shoots back by two-thirds. Tie all the main shoots firmly to supporting wires or canes.

- Sprout seed potatoes before planting, by placing them in trays (eyes uppermost) in a cold greenhouse or frost-proof shed.

- Make a first sowing of onions and leeks, in trays, in the greenhouse or coldframe.