Sleepless in Cadiz

Pedro, our precise but frenetic guide, rolled his eyes to the blazing sun and says mournfully: "Every day it is like this... every day."

This is no sleepy time city locked into a familiar Spanish convention of dozing away the afternoons. Cadiz is in a hurry: a very big hurry. And sleeping during the day is not an option.

New shops, buildings and wide, smoked-glass arcades are pushing an elegant shoulder into the re-invented tourist swirl, making it an ideal destination for adventurers with an interest in history and music.

However, most of this compact, yet very accessible short break or holiday destination is, one way or the other, related to noise. Silence, at almost anytime, quickly becomes an illusion.

If Ibiza is the capital of dance and rave music, Cadiz wins by a piercing clatter of castanets when it comes to electrifying flamenco dancing, singing and clapping.

Even at the hottest point of the day, when bees curl up for a snooze, downtown - near the seafront - the staccato sounds of dancers practising intricate flamenco steps filters from studios in shuttered houses, sending explosions of sound through the languid thoroughfares.

Raucous, sometimes almost spiritual singing, pushes from cellars, echoing and cannonading off the narrow whitewashed alleys.

And as the day turns to velvet night, the demanding, hypnotic steps of flamenco dance troupes kick in and, suddenly, the darkened streets are truly alive with the sound of music.

Now, the morning after the night-time dancing ritual, we are being melted into the cobbles by the seamless heat of another glorious day. But Pedro is not pleased because the squares are alive with the sound of building.

Waving his arms in resignation, he sighs over the rising tempo of sound: "There is so much to tell you but I cannot hear my head think," he explains. My party of tourists nod sympathetically.

However, later, over coffee in a thick-walled cafe, he did chronicle some dramatic high points and the chequered background underlining Cadiz's pivotal place in fashioning destiny long before the sandy beaches attracted tourists.

The city itself is flung out, like a matador's cloak, on a spindly peninsula, surrounded on three sides by the Atlantic Ocean.

The area has been celebrated in the literature of many cultures. Here are the lofty, secluded homes of famous bullfighters, haughty flamenco dancers, mysterious gypsies and the staid, affluent sherry merchants.

It was 1100BC when the Phoenician traders first founded a settlement on a site of the town that now proudly boasts it is the oldest continually inhabited city in western Europe.

Hannibal lived here before he was famous and, after the Romans changed its name from Gadir to Gades, Julius Caesar held his first public office. The city was Moorish territory for many years and regained importance and economic standing with the discovery of the New World. In fact, Columbus began his second voyage from here.

And, as the port of Seville silted up, Cadiz grew into the wealthiest landfall in western Europe.

The city became the focal point for one of the world's most famous and furious sea battles.

We listened enthralled as, in gripping tones, Pedro told how a slightly-built, battle-scarred son of a Norfolk vicar routed the Franco-Spanish fleet off Cape Trafalgar on October 21, 1805.

On that fateful day, Vice-Admiral Horatio Lord Nelson caused mayhem in the enemy's ranks, costing them 20 ships of the line, destroying 16 more and capturing another four.

But tragically, the gallant hero was wounded and died a couple of hours after he was hit by a French marksman. However, he did live long enough to hear the British had won the battle. Pedro explained the captain's famous last words were not "Kiss me Hardy," but, far more soberly: "Now I am satisfied. Thank God I have done my duty."

Suddenly, as we reflected quietly, there was a great grinding and grumbling then, nosing round a corner, came a famous big red London bus. We have four of them,' explained Pedro. And, as if it to prove a point, he shepherded us to the top deck for an aerial, whistle-stop tour of the city away from the thundering road drills.

Latterly, its close neighbour Seville has been enjoying a welcomed revival in tourism, encouraged by its grandiose setting for Spain's most dramatic centuries in history.

Everyone, for example, knows of its infamous barber and Don Juan swept the women of the town off their collective feet.

Even today, much like its coastal counterpart, Seville still holds all the romantic flavour of traditional Spain as gypsies sing old ballads and flamenco is tapped out to the syncopated rhythms of classical guitar. If you can break away from the magnetic pull of the music, visit the excellent, almost impromptu street markets which spring up at different hours in different daily locations.

Good quality hade-made ceramics and wrought iron sculpture were undoubtedly the best buys. But take care with leather goods. Initially they may seem excellent to admire but, in reality, some can be of very dubious quality. Personally, I settled for some unique CDs loud flamenco music, of course. I even think Pedro would have approved of that noise!

INFORMATION

Ken Bennett travelled to Cadiz on Coronia as guest of Cunard Line. Coronia's Adriatic Adventure sails from Southampton and visits Cadiz, Malta, Venice and other historic ports.

For a brochure, Cunard Cruises 2003, or bookings, call: 0800-052-3840 or log on to: www.cunard.co.uk. Alternatively, write to: Cunard Line, Mountbatten House, Grosvenor Square, Southampton SO15 2BF.

Thomson Cities offer two-night breaks to Cadiz from £67 per person, accommodation only, based on two sharing a twin or double room at the four-star Hotel Monasterio San Miquel in July. Flights are extra and can be booked on request. They also have packages to Seville priced from £269-a-head between July 1 to 16.

For further information and reservations, contact Thomson Cities on 0870-606-1476 or consult: www.thomsoncities.co.uk In June, Cresta Holidays (0870-3333-303) features a selection of ten Seville hotels, with direct flights from Heathrow or Gatwick, priced from £299 per person, twin share. Or visit: www.crestaholidays.co.uk